Patternmaking for Fashion Design (4th Edition) Reviews

• really comprehensive text for flat patternmaking

  
  By A2XOCQ0Q4169QG on 2000-10-04
  After receiving this textbook for my third level patternmaking course in design school, I managed to read through after the term was over and realized how much we had skipped over - this book is packed with how-to information on developing not only the basic block (bodice F/B, skirt F/B, fitted sleeve) but variations of all sorts. I think a reader with good skills at visualizing a fashion design could, with this text, learn to pattern and build almost anything. First, every single exercise she covers is more than adequately illustrated, with fashion figures (or portions thereof) modelling the particular neckline, sleeve, skirt silhouette, etc so you can accurately see, not guess, what the style line in question looks like on a body. And technical drawings are clear and plentiful, so one can easily understand whether she's overlapping the skirt panels to compare hip curves or pivoting the bodice back to transfer a dart from waist to side seam. No confusion here, which is quite an accomplishment given the complexity of the subject. Second, the accompanying text is abbreviated to make the read easier but not so much that you will get lost in following from step a to step b. And at the beginning of each section the author given a little introduction which compares the efficiency and difficulty of the given method, outlines its uses and end results, and possible further adaptations. In the first 2 chapters, author covers the workroom (incl. list of tools, photos from manufacturing, completed sample cost sheet/pattern chart/design specification sheet, basic fabric and pattern terminology used in later chapters, and summaries of computerized patternmaking and development processes) and model form measurement. Chapter 3 covers drafting the basic pattern set. Chapters 4-9 cover the three main principles of flat patternmaking: dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring. Author then devotes a chapter to each of: collars, built-up necklines, cowls, skirts/circles/cascades, sleeves, kimono/raglan/dropped/exaggerated armholes, buttons/buttonholes/facings, plackets/pockets, dresses without waistline seams, strapless foundations/interconstruction, bias-cut dresses, shirt foundations, jackets/coats, capes/hoods, knockoff methods, pants, knits, knit foundations, actionwear/dancewear/exercisewear, and swimwear. Then follows this with 7 chapters covering various aspects of childrenswear. Yep, REALLY comprehensive. This text will function quite well as a reference volume, because it's logically organized, well indexed, tells and shows WHY the principles in question are true, and addresses problems to be solved in addition to just explaining basic elements. In addition to patternmaking instructions, the author includes lots of useful reference material, for example: names of different types of pleats, standard sizing for childrens' wear, definition of a peplum (with illustrations), recommended methods & materials for knocking off (copying) a ready-made garment, whole page of button size technical drawings, definition of parts of a classic blazer, and blank pattern charts and cost sheets (useful for manufacturing, not really for home sewing). With 821 pages nose to tail, this isn't a light read, nor will you find any color photos of designer name work. Don't buy it for your coffee table or plan to tuck it into your purse for reading in waiting rooms. But do buy it to add depth to your understanding of patterns and to expand your skillset at pattern alteration and development. If your goal is to leave behind commercial patterns and flesh out your own fashion concepts or to really figure out how mere measurements can gel into a working pattern, this text will help you do it. Since the author is an instructor of fashion design at LA's Trade Technical College, she knows how to teach and what information will really be needed. So stock up on large sheets of pattern paper, clear off a table, and dig in and enjoy!
  
  

• Great for learning how to manipulate patterns

  
  By on 2002-02-06
  I was introduced to this book through a pattern making class, and though I have not read this book page-by-page, I found to be very useful. I have a sloper of my own measurements that I use for my own designs, but this book provides a copy of various half-scale slopers you can use to practice with. There is also a chapter on making your own sloper, but I just skimmed over it.

  This book teaches you the basic principles behind pattern manipulation. You can use the principles in this book to make original designs of your own. There is so much information in this book that I cannot touch on everything and keep this review short, so it's a bit long. Once you have your own sloper made, and understand the principles that this book teaches you, you will never need to buy a store bought pattern.

  There are 36 chapters in this book; and just to give you an idea of how broad a scope of pattern manipulation this book touches on I'll list the chapters:
  1. The work room, 2. Model Form and Measurements, 3. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set, 4. Dart Manipulation (Principle #1), 5. Designing with Darts (Tuck-darts, Pleats, Flares, and Gathers), 6. Stylelines, 7. Added Fullness (Principle #2), 8. Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks, 9. Contouring (Principle #3), 10. Collars, 11. Built-up Necklines, 12. Cowls, 13. Skirts/Circles and Cascades, 14. Sleeves, 15. Kimono, Raglan, Drop, Shoulder, and Exaggerated Armholes, 16. Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings, 17. Plackets and Pockets, 18. Dresses without Waistline Seams (Based on Torso foundation), 19. Strapless Foundations, 20. Patternmaking for Bias-cut Dresses, 21. Shirts, 22. Jackets and Coats, 23. Capes and Hoods, 24. Knock-Off-Copying Ready-Made Designs, 25. Pants, 26. Knits-Stretch and Shrinkage Factors, 27. Knit Foundaiton, 28. Actionwear for Dance and Exercise, 29. Swimwear, 30. Introduction to Childreswear, 31. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set Measurement taking Standard Measurement Charts, 32. Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts, 33. Dresses and Jumpers, 34. Tops, 35. Pant and Jump Suits, 36. Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear,
  
  

• The textbook I go back to most often

  
  By A1MMWBOMMGYVTS on 2000-06-19
  This was one of my favorite textbooks from design school. It's the one I refer back to most often, because I know what I want will be there, and will be presented clearly. It is the most complete reference I have in my library for flat-patternmaking, and covers everything from making basic slopers from measurements (the book provides measurements for standard sizes, or substitute a real client's), through all sorts of bodices, sleeves, collars, skirts, pants, and other details. Also included are sections on knitwear, including swimwear, and a good portion of the book is devoted to children's clothing. Highly recommended and well worth the price.
  
  

• Start learning patternmaking!

  
  By A39QS5PCS6KBVF on 2004-10-17
  Elizabeth M. Allemong from Vestis Books
  author of European Cut - How to Draft Basic Slopers for Custom-Made Clothes
  
  This huge and comprehensive textbook prepares college students for making patterns for the ready-to-wear industry. As most patternmaking manuals in this country, the book teaches the American method of drafting slopers with minimum ease included, as well as applying design lines to basic patterns.
  
  What the book does not teach is where and how much to add of design ease. (Wearing ease, design ease, and design or style lines make up the complete sewing pattern). The technique of adding design ease to every possible garment cannot be done in a book of hundreds pages; this book would have to be thousands of pages. Readers must understand that.
  
  Adding design ease depends on several factors, for example: type of garment, occasion, fashion silhouette, fabric, type of fit, etc. Professional patternmakers know these factors and they consider them carefully, whether they make patterns for factories, pattern companies, or individual clients. (I imagine that students attending Armstrong's classes at the L.A. Trade-Technical College learn about adding design ease.) I learned about adding ease in my school.
  
  Would I recommend this book to a home-sewer who wants to start learning patternmaking? Wholeheartedly! While I prefer to use the European method of drafting basic slopers, I used Armstrong's book extensively when I was learning to apply design lines. Adding design lines is universal, regardless of what method of drafting slopers one uses.
  
  Armstrong's book is also rich in details of other aspects of patternmaking, like contouring, an important patternmaking principle, often forgotten by other books. The reader must also remember that while faddish designs change quickly, classic designs remain the same. The purpose of this book is to learn basic patternmaking so that making any future patterns, regardless of style, becomes possible. Helen Joseph Armstrong prepares her students well.
  
  
  

• VERY comprehensive but lacking in basic/beginner's details

  
  By on 2002-02-07
  This book is packed with dozens of different patterns, from different types of pants to different types of skirts. But I have two gripes with it.

  My first problem is that some of the instructions seem like certain, important, key manuvers (i.e. how to blend the hip line into the waist line, from the slack pattern) are more inferred than they are explained. It feels like the author assumes that the reader knows to do this as opposed to that. Unfortunately, little things like that can result in the wrong fit. I wish the author could have explained the instructions more, like why this has to be done and why that won't work... I know this was created for the more experienced sewer but the format seems so much for the beginner.... It just felt a little misleading to see that each step is clearly organized only to find that in between steps there are un-noted, excluded instructions/reasons that are obviously very important to the final pattern.

  My second problem is that alot of the styles seem very dated and downright dowdy. Yolks? I don't see many people wearing yolks these days, nor do I see them on ready-to-wear clothes in the stores. I probably have the 2nd edition but still, it wasn't written that long ago. But then again, as they say, to each their own.

  I really wanted to give this book 5 stars for being the only comprehensive and somewhat up=to-date book on patternmaking available today but I felt that it could have been much better and less of a struggle for us less-experience sewers. So, if you've taken patternmaking classes before and are well-versed in dressmaking, this book would be great for you. As for the rest of us, this book is not as kind to the beginner.
  
  

• Problems with the Third Edition
  By on 2001-03-24
  I am using the third edition of this book for my flat pattern drafting class. Despite good recommendations, my classmates and instructors all really dislike the book. I had a chance to compare it with the second edition, and I found out why we have had so many problems (e.g., exercises not working correctly, contradictory information in the text, missing information, etc.). It seems that when the third edition was created, a lot of essential instructions and information were taken out of the book. There are also innumerable editorial errors. As a reference text, this book is voluminous although not comprehensive. A lot of the information is presented with no explanation. There is a lot of conceptual information about pattern drafting that this book doesn't include, and overall, I don't recommend it as a book for teaching oneself how to draft patterns. If you do use it as a text, be prepared to be skeptical of the exercise directions, and remember to use a lot of common sense. Personally, I am now going to try to get a copy of the second edition, because I did really like it. The exercises were easy to follow (unlike the third edition), and the book does tell how to draft just about anything.
  
  
• amazing
  By A1GMDA79S0Q9O3 on 2000-05-03
  I never drafted a pattern before I read this book. Now I can make my own designs. It is easy to follow. Has great illustrations and clear instructions. I love it
  
  
• It has its shortcomings
  By AMSRT3GOZO8D1 on 2002-10-06
  This is the book we use at my college. I can't compare it to other patternmaking books, but I know that Armstrong's has problems and really needs a good editor. Occasionally, steps are missing and measurements aren't accurate, and both my classmates and my teacher have found it frustrating.
  
  
• Designing is a whole new world!
  By on 2001-05-14
  I am fairly new to sewing and, while using the third edition of this book, I continually came up with problems getting the assignments done for class. The third edition has left out many of the basic instructions which are needed for the more novice seamstress. In addition, there were errors in calculations that even I, as a beginner, found. The second edition is more comprehensive and more geared to those with limited knowledge and experience in this field. I would recommend using the second edition for those individuals who may need a little more direction in designing and completing garments.
  
  
• Brilliant!
  By A3OALAZHHM6LLF on 2000-05-18
  After many years of diddling commercial patterns, I will never have to buy another pattern again! Great text for the novice to advanced sewer alike. Used as a text book in Australia Colleges/Universities. Simple instructions with clear diagrams. Pattern making for woven, stretch and childrens wear. Highly recommended to all! There is nothing that you will not be able to make a pattern for after studying this book.
  
  
• Excellent
  By on 1999-05-14
  This book, unlike many others, goes into extensive detail regarding dart manipulation. I have been able to re create the intricate designs of the 30's 40's and 50's where dart manipulation was the essence of the garment. It is complex but not so much so that the average dressmaker cant use it. It is written in a tutorial type format, with reduced scale pattern blocks to practice with. All in all, the best book I have got in my large collection.
  
  
• A godsend
  By A3CMW7G8QK1MUK on 2005-06-03
  I learned to sew a long time ago as a little girl, and as ten year old I could not identify with the outdated sketches in the pattern drafting books my mother had in her possession. This book on the other hand inspires creativity, I look in it and I see her explaining methods that result in clothes close to what you see on the runway. She doesn't get into haute couture but you can make some pretty darn amazing stuff using her instructions. She also includes variations and encourages readers to practice or at least figure out the method used to achieve it. I did think that she could have had more clearly defined areas for her basic blocks, and she really didn't delve deeply enough into pants for me. Overall though I am thrilled with this book and even though in my money it is six times the price you see, I think it was a great investment!
  
  
• A plea from a taller woman
  By A2SY9NQ9PCREHH on 2005-07-08
  A tall woman with shoulders broadened by swimming, I spent hours looking for clothes (in flattering colors) that actually fit. Although I hadn't sewn much since I was in 4-H more than 30 years ago, I was inspired when I saw the marvelous patterns in this book and was able to follow the instructions fairly readily. This work, and the marvelous book, the Triumph of Individual Style by Carla Mathis and Helen Connor, have allowed me to dress in both flattering and expressive ways. Simultaneously, I would love it if Ms. Armstrong would include in future editions information relevant to pattern making and modification for the thousands and thousands of women taller than the sizes specified in standard misses patterns, information that I ended up culling from less comprehensive books on pattern alteration.
  
  
• [Knock off]
  By A21LDNB4VZQVT7 on 2003-02-14
  Okay, this book promises good stuff, but ... could it be any harder to understand? You basically need two books to interpret how to make a single pattern. Very vague. We use this book at FIDM and I think it would have been better if the two books we use were put into one. Use it if you must, because it is a good reference for children's and body suits. Also, the illustrations are better than most.
  
  
• Finally ! Best value for my dollar
  By A3EGW9PB9JQSWG on 2006-09-01
  I received this book yesterday and read the first 100 pages. I've sewn all my life and consider myself an advanced seamstress. I've sewn and made my own patterns for childrens' heirloom, business suits, and now enjoy making (jazz) dance costumes. I'm the one in line at the fabric store buying ten patterns, just to combine different details and features in different sizes, especially if sewing for a group. I probably own hundreds of patterns and almost that many books. For me, this book will pay for itself many times over. It isn't a sewing "how to" book and it wouldn't be the first book for a beginner. The reader should be familiar or use other reference books for actual garment construction techniques. I've bought other, less expensive sewing books to learn pattern manipulation and fitting techniques. I put off the purchase of this book, being put off by its price. But, finally! This book is so inspiring and liberating. In just the first 100 pages, I've gotten through the basic patternmaking and dart manipulation. I think I may never have to buy another pattern again ! This is definitely a must have for the serious sewing enthusiast.
  
  
• Some Instructions Inadequate
  By AEYW2GCMTE03H on 2006-09-10
  I purchased this book as my figure has changed and I needed to re-do my basic slopers. The pattern design books I currently have did not cover trousers so I was delighted to find a new book that was apparently so comprehensive.
  
  I found however that the method used to create basic bodice slopers, simply did not work with my measurements. There was no way the strap measurement was going to reach the line it was supposed to and there is no way to work around it as the rest of the drafting works from the point created.
  
  I would also have liked some instructions on how to take measurements on live people rather than just models. If "the strap measurement may cover the armplate", what happens with an arm in the way? After all at least a few fashion students would hopefully go on to work with actual people rather than just standard measurements or models. I thought it was a major flaw in the book that there was no instruction on taking personal measurements & so little instruction on creating the basic slopers. It is really disppointing to have to find another method before I can use the rest of the book.
  
  
• Excellent!
  By A2JQ0JKSM03UYF on 2004-02-25
  This is a great book to learn how to make patterns and also a great reference if you already know how. The pictures and diagrams are very detailed and helpful and the instructions are easy to read. I highly reccomend it!
  
  
• Patternmaking
  By on 2001-06-14
  A wonderful book for designing your clothes even on amateur level. Good pictures, lots of variations, and excellent guide for implementing designs into patterns. And the best part is the large number of ideas to try. Combined to the Fashion Design Manual by Pamela Stecker one should be able to get personal results.
  
  
• Extensive, but a few mistakes...
  By A3BXBFLE6KPLY0 on 2006-11-02
  I was required to purchase this book for my fashion design class. At first I was completely blown away at how comprehensive it was. It talked about measuring, darts and manipulation, basic patterns and principles, women, mens, children, knit, and sportswear. From what I can tell, it's based off of " Industry Standards". So It's not your everyday Joe book.
  
  During class though, many of my teachers noticed discrepancies in the instructions. Particularly the fitted arm block. It made me fail my class twice because the first and second teacher didn't catch that the instructions were incorrect, causing me to continually make an incorrect arm block. It took my DRAPING teacher to find out that the book was incorrect in the instructions for the sleeve cap.
  
  We also had a problem during class, when the instructions made an extremely wonky sleeve pattern, and also a two dart bodice. The student was extremely frustrated with the book and the teacher for their lack of help and knowledge. The student was not an " industry standard" size. So the measurement guides were not available to her to make a proper judgement. She had to receive a bad grade because the book would not produce the correct pattern, and the teacher didn't know what to do.
  
  Otherwise, this book is still a great reference. Many of the styles seem outdated, but yet can be played on to create current looks. But some of the wedding sleeve types are somewhat awful, but that's personal opinion.
  
  
• Great but doesn't include draping details
  By AO758NL4L243R on 2006-03-10
  I am an experienced sewer. I learned to sew professionally at the age of 12 when I attended the Singer Dressmaking Program during the summer and have been sewing ever since. I purchased this book based on recommendations I read in Amazon.com and I am not disappointed. The instructions are very detailed and clear. I think the program could be enhanced if it also contained information on how to drape as it is also part of the pattern-making process when you're designing clothes. I don't believe you have to be an experienced sewer to enjoy this book. In fact, I am thinking of purchasing a copy to give to my younger sister for her birthday. She will be 41 and is just learning how to sew, on her own at that!
  
  
• Designs by Sharon
  By ALXHQJL1PQE1G on 2006-08-08
  This book was used during a 12 week class I attended for Patternmaking. It is very thorough and is an excellent reference for just about any type of pattern one could desire to make. I learned a great deal using the book as a reference guide while I studied the various fundamental components to patternmaking. However, it can be a little intimidating if used as a self-study text. This issue could have been solved if there had been an answer section for the various exercises that accompanied each chapter. Many of the students in our class felt it was a text designed for those enrolled in a formal college level class, i.e., it oftened assumed reader knowledge beyond that expected of a lay person. (Everyone in our class was required to be at the advanced level of sewing experience.) Some of the exercises were made more difficult because the technique to design a sample pattern was in a later chapter, not having been covered in the one just studied. Overall,though,it is a good reference and certainly belongs in the personal library of any serious home sewer.
  
  
• An excellent book on all types of patternmaking.
  By on 1999-03-25
  This is an excellent book on all types of patternmaking. I use it all the time for drafting and altering patterns. The illustrations are simple and easy to follow. It has been a valuable resource for patternmaking.
  
  
• EXCELENTE LIBRO SOBRE PATRONAJE
  By on 1999-10-06
  La Senora ARMSTRONG ha logrado copilar en estas 809 paginas informacion valiosisima sobre como desarrollar desde patrones basicos, hasta encontrar veredaderos tesoros en lo que a diseno se refiere.

  Despues de repasar este libro poco a poco, he podido llevar ideas que tenia solamente en mente, a papel y logar el diseno deseado. Para mi como hispanoparlante ha sido un privilegio poder encontrar en los Estados Unidos toda esta valiosisima informacion.

  Siempre el diseno ha despertado en mi fascinacion, pero con ayuda de muy buenos libros como este, he logrado un conocimiento muy preciso sobre como realizar patrones en diferentes telas, y para diferentes individuos; se que con el tiempo podre aun mejorar mas pero siempre con el apoyo de libros tan valiosos como este.

  Su contenido varia a diferentes estilos que han estado de moda y de los que actualmente se ven en las pasarelas, pero como sabemos la MODA va y VIENE. Es por esto que este libro es invaluable, HOY y MANANA tendra la misma actualidad.

  GRACIAS Senora HELEN JOSEPH ARMSTRONG.
  
  

• good value
  By A3HCS8WRUWL57P on 2005-11-16
  I have found this book to be excellent. Heaps of clear diagrams and written in plain english. The only thing I would have liked it to include is grading.
  
  
• The Teacher's Guide
  By A92B74OHSUI5G on 2002-04-06
  I am living in Jamaica West Indies,We do not have this book here on the market so a friend who travel brought it and lown it to me .As a fashion desinging teacher i found this book very good,i need one for myself but i can notbuy it through this method.
  So the bottom line is i used this book as my teaching guide.
  Thank you.
  I am,
  Cynthia Mcdonald.
  31 Aqualitavale Ave,
  Kingston 20.
  jamaica West Indes.
  
  
• Amazing Book
  By A2EQIXH2SQH1EF on 2006-06-09
  This book covers every single thing that you need to know about patternmaking/drafting. After researching this book on this site, I knew that I just had to have it. It covers everything and anything you are thinking of designing. Trust me..... investing in this book will not leave you disappointed (I know I'm not). The instructions and illustrations are simple and easy to understand. It covers all styles u could think of. I just cannot put this book down. If you are "thirsting" to learn the art of pattern making, this book is the ONE. Buy it!!! Buy it now!!!
  
  
• No, No, No......
  By A1937TUGV8JZFV on 2007-01-23
  This book is outdated, outmoded, and nearly useless. It contains tons of information on how to manipulate fabrics that aren't even in use anymore. Hardly anything on dealing with knit fabrics, which look better and are easier to manipulate. Ask anyone under 50 if they have ever seen any darts in their clothes? And all this slashing and turning and manipulating??? not only is it sloppy, its useless, Useless, USELESS! Lots of money spent for vague instructions on basic blocks, and only clothes made in the 80's. Save eyour money, just because this book is expensive, doesn't make it useful.
  
  
• Excellent resource
  By A2XKO4JKI9QKKK on 2005-08-30
  This book contains everything the experienced person needs to get a good start at making their own patterns. Obviously, you'd need to be at least at the intermediate level to even contemplate a larger project . . .
  
  
• Best patternmaking book I ever read.
  By A1C0ZSC8P4BSWB on 1999-09-27
  This book is the most important tool you can have as a reference for your day to day work in patternmaking.
  
  
• The BEST!!
  By A3TAPN9A4T9K7U on 2001-05-12
  This is such a great book!! I just took a class in flat pattern drafting and now that I know how to use the book, I feel like I can draft almost anything!!
  
  

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